Hello everyone, this is Chisato Tateno, 2025 Miss SAKE Japan.
On Friday, May 8, I had the honor of participating in a terroir tour at Nagai Sake Brewery in Gunma Prefecture together with Hana Oue, 2026 Miss SAKE Osaka; Yu Koyashiki, 2026 Miss SAKE Osaka Runner-Up; and Yumi Ishikawa, 2026 Miss SAKE Osaka Judges’ Special Award recipient. We were also accompanied by Mr. Akira Deguchi, Representative Director of the Caviar Sommelier Association, members of the association, and Ms. Mika Onishi, Representative Director of the Miss SAKE Association.
The Philosophy at the Core of Nagai Sake Brewery
Kawaba Village in Gunma Prefecture, where Nagai Sake Brewery is located, is a region blessed with abundant nature where one can encounter the nostalgic landscapes of Japan, despite being only about one hour from Tokyo by Shinkansen. The area is also close to Oze National Park, the famous skunk cabbage wetlands, and the Minakami Onsen region, attracting visitors from both Japan and abroad throughout the year in search of seasonal beauty. Standing amidst the crystal-clear air and endlessly stretching rice fields, I felt as though my heart was slowly being released from the rush of everyday life.
The terroir tour began with a presentation by Ms. Matsumi Nagai from Nagai Sake Brewery, who shared the family history behind the brewery. The origins of Nagai Sake Brewery, which celebrates its 140th anniversary this year, trace back to its founder, Shoji Nagai. Originally a samurai from Nagano Prefecture, Shoji recognized the potential of sake brewing — one of the most promising industries following the Meiji Restoration — and moved approximately 300 kilometers to Kawaba Village with the dream of “brewing sake at the source region of the Tone River that supports the people of Edo.”
Kawaba Village, with a population of approximately 3,300 people, is located at the headwaters of the Tone River, which has the largest river basin area in Japan. The area is home to a protected water source forest that Nagai Sake Brewery has carefully preserved for generations. Snowmelt from Mount Hotaka begins as extremely soft water with a hardness level of around 10 to 20. However, as the water slowly travels through underground layers over the course of approximately 20 years before reaching the brewery just 500 meters away, it naturally absorbs minerals and transforms into water with a hardness of around 60 to 70.
At Nagai Sake Brewery, this very “journey of water” is considered part of the sake’s individuality. Their philosophy is to create “sake that expresses the beauty of nature exactly as it is.”
A Terroir Tour Beginning with Water
During this visit, we were also able to visit the water source itself — the very origin of the brewery’s sake-making philosophy. Tasting the crystal-clear spring water flowing through the rich forest, I was struck by its remarkably soft texture and subtle sweetness. While there, we also enjoyed “Mizubasho PURE Sparkling,” through which I could sense the same softness, clarity, and natural sweetness found in the water itself. It became a precious opportunity to experience with all five senses what it truly means to create sake with “water as its backbone.”
Afterward, we visited the rice fields of “Yukihotaka,” a rare premium brand of Koshihikari rice often referred to as “enkomai,” or relationship-based rice. This exceptional rice has received the Gold Prize at the International Contest on Rice Taste Evaluation for 13 consecutive years. Witnessing firsthand the dedication of the producers — who strive every year to surpass previous evaluations — as well as their tension and joy surrounding the awards, deeply moved me once again and allowed me to feel the immense passion poured into rice cultivation in this region.
A Sensory Experience of Food and Sake
Next, we moved to the brewery’s second-floor tasting room, “SHINKA.” This space was inspired by the winery culture experienced by the Nagai family in Napa Valley, California. Traditional brewery tours in Japan often focus heavily on technical explanations and production processes, but the Nagais wanted to create a place where people could enjoy sake more intuitively and emotionally through their senses.
Inside the facility were displays of sparkling sake and vintage sake developed through research involving approximately 3,000 bottles and 700 recipes. There was also “SAKE LABO,” a small-scale production facility dedicated to exploring new flavors and possibilities in sake brewing. Currently, around 30 new flavor profiles are being developed there, and I was deeply inspired by their innovative spirit and willingness to push the boundaries of sake.
Afterward, we enjoyed a pairing lunch course overlooking the beautiful rural landscape. Together with delicate dishes featuring locally sourced ingredients and domestically produced caviar, we tasted selections including “Mizubasho PURE Sparkling,” “Mizubasho Yukihotaka Sparkling Vintage,” “NAGAI Labo – SAKE SHINKA N007,” and “Mizubasho Yukihotaka Junmai Ginjo.”
Listening closely to the climate, history, and emotions embodied in each glass while sharpening all five senses to fully experience the flavors — it truly felt as though I had stepped into the world of a beautifully crafted film.
A Consistent Philosophy and Spirit of Innovation
Throughout the entire tour, I strongly sensed the consistent philosophy upheld by Mr. Noriyoshi Nagai, Chairman of Nagai Sake Brewery: “creating new value for sake.” Having studied architecture, Mr. Nagai was drawn to the process of creating something entirely new from nothing and has long pursued new possibilities for Japanese sake. Meanwhile, Ms. Matsumi Nagai, who spent 15 years living in the United States, is also actively engaged in initiatives related to women’s empowerment and social contribution. Nagai Sake Brewery’s efforts to shape the future of sake by embracing nature, local communities, culture, art, and food have attracted significant attention both in Japan and internationally. In fact, this terroir tour is reportedly fully booked up to six months in advance. I was deeply impressed by their approach of presenting sake not merely as something to drink, but as a cultural experience that allows people to encounter and feel the essence of a place itself.
Through this terroir tour at Nagai Sake Brewery, I once again deeply realized that Japanese sake is not simply a beverage, but a cultural expression that reflects the nature, history, people, and even the future aspirations of the land where it is born. Just as a single drop of water becomes sake through many years of transformation, sake itself is nurtured through the accumulation of local climate, culture, and the lives of the people connected to it. This visit became an invaluable opportunity to learn this through all five senses.
As Miss SAKE, I will continue to carefully share with the world the climate, culture, and heartfelt dedication of producers throughout Japan, while conveying new values and emotional experiences born through sake both domestically and internationally.
Lastly, I would like to express my heartfelt gratitude to everyone at Nagai Sake Brewery for warmly welcoming us and providing such a meaningful experience.
Chisato Tateno
2025 Miss SAKE Japan
